Thank goodness for Faye and Bob suggesting that I bring binoculars, and for Phil who found them for me.  The pair was so helpful in seeing the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela.  I was only there for one day, but it was a perfect day and absolutely worth the 18 hours of train travel to get there J

It is remarkable that Santiago is the largest, pilgrimage church in the Christian world, and has been for 1,000 years.  People still walk the Camino de Santiago with their walking sticks and shells, and though many are just on a long hike, most are on a spiritual quest of which the whole point is to grow closer to God and act kindly to others.  It is essentially a journey of good works. 

Kicked out of the cathedral for having a backpack (really, it makes sense; nearly EVERYONE has a trekking backpack), I tried to find the deposito (where you can stash your bag for the day).  One peregrino (pilgrim) knew that I was lost and rather than just point the way out to me, he walked me to the small, hidden courtyard a couple blocks away.  He had walked from France in 31 days, and he looked refreshed and he was smiling broadly.  I thought about what a high you would be on after finally arriving at Santiago after a 100km walk, and how eager you might be to make other pilgrims’ journey a bit easier especially since you had now arrived.  It was so kind what he did for me, so out of his way.  He was a true pilgrim.  And he gave me more than direction; he helped me lighten my load.  I had taken the night train to Santiago and was to take the night train back to Madrid, so I did not have a hotel to stash my bag in.  I had been expecting to carry my pack with me for the day’s duration.  He made sure to help me get rid of that extra load as quickly as possible.  Very kind. 

In that moment, I knew who he was, even though I didn’t know his name.  We didn’t exchange names.  But then we are usually known by our characters, our personalities, our deeds more than by our names.  What we do is often more important.    

It occurred to me later that after arriving in Santiago, after the liminal sacredness of a community walking 100 km together, after the flush of seeing and HUGGING St. James’ bust, what is there to look forward to? A 100 km walk back?  Damn it.  Pilgrims today probably hop a train to Madrid and fly home, but 500 years ago, pilgrims had to just turn around and walk back.  And I thought, isn’t that what life is?  You make an arduous journey and you are grateful for it, but eventually, it’s just as strenuous a walk back home, a mundane, non-liminal, journey back to your life. 

It’s a long road there and a long road back.  Hopefully, you have some friends and good family to walk with you.  And today, which makes the day even more perfect, I am so grateful that I do.  I really miss you all. 

the scallop shell--the symbol of the pilgrim on the Road to Santiago